healthcare is a human right

Can I just say, FINALLY!! Today marked a huge step in American history and healthcare reform when the Supreme Court upheld the Patient Protection and Affordable Care Act, which combines different approaches to guarantee healthcare insurance for many more Americans. As a nurse I strongly believe in healthcare as a human right, and working in a current system that leaves so many out to dry I am so very excited about these much needed changes.

I know we are taking a huge step in the right direction, but I also believe that some of the biggest issues in our system were completely ignored. And the truth is, our healthcare system is still a complete and total mess that is still being run by private insurance companies that have power in denying healthcare coverage and play a major role in the unjustifiable costs of care.

Having a greater number of Americans insured is the first part to fixing the system, but getting costs down is going to take a major overhaul. There are so many different reasons why healthcare is so expensive in the U.S. compared with other developed countries, countries that we should be looking to for guidance in healthcare reform and quality improvement. Addressing the common belief that the private sector can run a medical system for less money than government can is the first step, because Japan, Germany, France, show evidence otherwise.

It’s pretty clear that our healthcare system hasn’t produced the best results. We perform poorly in a fundamental area, human life. But that’s what I am excited about, as more people become insured and are accessing preventative care, are being seen regularly by their primary care provider (PCP), our healthcare system will maintain health and reap the benefits of lowered cost, and so will Americans.

Health reform is so far from being over but today was a day to celebrate the steps in the right direction.

Salsa with a Snake traverse, 5.9 S

The Popo Agie sinkin’

After Squamish I headed to Lander, WY to visit my friend Mitch, whom I met in Japan last winter. There are two major climbing areas near Lander within 15 minutes, Sinks Canyon and Wild Iris. We decided to spend a few days in Sinks Canyon, which was carved by the Popo Agie River (pronounced pupojee) that sinks down into a cave and reappears 200 yards down the canyon. Sinks is absolutely breath taking and there is a huge variety in climbing, from sandstone cracks, dolomite faces, and granite buttresses. One of my favorite routes in Sinks so far is called Bush Doctor, a super pumpy 12a that doesn’t let up until the anchors, the business is a burly move out of a roof. Tomorrow will be my last day so I may just have to project it for next time, either way I’ll be psyched to go back to it.

b-flies!

Yesterday we bushwhacked to Amantis, a 5.9 sandstone crack that started about 150 feet over the Popo Agie. We hiked up to the ledge that we had to traverse to reach the Amantis base, which was only about 1-2 ft wide in most spots. On our way I noticed a quick rattle, and looked down as Mitch stepped over the snake and was left blocking the ledge between us. We took a good 10 minutes (which totally felt like an hour) to decide on a plan of action. We weren’t going to try to kill it, there were no places to set an anchor or throw any ropes back to me, which left a scary traverse over the rattle snake with my pack and a chaucy section of face climbing. FA’ed Salsa with a Snake traverse and was officially over climbing for the day. We ran up Amantis and the rest of the day was spent hiking up to Popo Agie Falls and swimming in the pools and sliding off the rock slides, which was a ton of fun!

Mitch sliding off the rock slide

The upper falls and swim area

Solar recharging on some rocks overlooking the Popo Agie

While I have been in Lander I was also offered a nursing job in the medical surgical unit at University of Colorado Hospital, a nurse residency in Denver that will be starting the end of July. I was so thankful to be here in Sinks to think about the offer and after a lot of thought I am so excited to announce that I will be accepting the job at one of the the best research hospitals in the US. I am so thrilled about this new adventure that will take place over the next two years and am looking forward to heading home to spend time with friends and family before I move.  I must say, I have a very thankful heart and feel so incredibly blessed!

Canada wet, we go to merica

Team brushing efforts on Tyler’s dihedral v3, photo cred Jesse Clark

Andrea working out the beta on Tyler’s dihedral

After our rest day we completely destroyed the North Wall area! After warming up we all worked on Tyler’s dihedral, a super fun and dynamic foot cutting problem that ended in a campus then mantle. After finally sticking the dyno, I ended up finishing with the worst 2 minute grovel sesh that had me yelling and almost in tears. One of the funnest and scariest v3 boulder problems I’ve been on, I had to rest a good hour before working on the proj because I was so wiped out.

Matt’s second go on Styx, v7. Photo cred Scott

We headed up to Styx, a v7 that I was so completely psyched on from the day before. Matt sent second go, Jesse repeated, and Andrea, Selena, and I worked girl beta for the afternoon. After moving off the sloping right side pull there was a key crimp that required a beautiful drop knee and smear that made the tall move into an insecure stem. I sank low to dyno the first chance I got, and was punished with a massive flapper in my left hand. I was finally able to work out a more static approach and sent my first v7!! (:

My drop knee beta on Styx, and my first v7!! So excited and thankful for all the encouragement. Photo cred Scotty Scott

After Styx we headed to Andrea’s project, Space Monkey, a v5 that has a savage throw to a mail slot jug and an strong finish on a sloping rail. It was awesome to see her send!

Andrea crushing Space Monkey, v5

For Jesse and Scott. So cute, awe!

The next day was completely drenched, so we drove north to Whistler, which was also soaked, then headed straight down to the U S of A into Leavenworth, WA where we still had time for a fun evening sesh.

game ball goes to..

Dew drops poo drops, not good for bouldering. But I’m a sucker for pretty flower pictures.

The only one psyched on three weeks of rain was this guy. Lucky for us the sun and breeze is out, dry rocks for now!

The Chief. Our humble camp is at the base. Yesterday search and rescue was here with a helicopter, dumb climbers.

Today marks the first official rest day! After getting to Squamish after having consistent rain for nearly three weeks I was feeling like I might need to bid farewell early and move on to sunnier places. But after spending two solid days of bouldering so far I have concluded rock must dry faster anywhere outside of Portland.

All smiles after Trad Killer, v4. Photo credit Jesse Clark. 

Our second day was spent in the mossy forest at the base of the Chief. After breakfast the sun came out and with the wind on the rocks we had climbable conditions for the rest of the day.

Trad Killer, a top hundy classic in the Grand Wall boulders. Photo credit Jesse Clark.

Jesse and I were super amped to be able to climb in the forest yesterday and we started with a fun warm up circuit, which I found quite warm once we were done (I was wearing my puffy for no good reason). We went over to check out Heart Break Hotel, a top 100 v2 classic that was still a tad wet with a few committing moves. We both got sketched, and headed over to Trad Killer, the next top 100 classic my tick list. Trad Killer turned out to be an absolute gem of a climb and got me really psyched on the bouldering in the Grand Wall area. I have got to say, the bouldering here is so completely different from anything I have ever experienced. I find it’s really stiff for the grades, but if you can let go of the points, project a v3 in humility, you will absolutely love this place. I also think there is something to be said about the style of bouldering that makes the grades feel stiff at times, short, sweet, and burly.

Jesse working Airtight Garage, v7

We met up with Jesse’s friends Andrea and Matt (the world’s cutest climbing couple) to go work on Child Abuse, v4, later in the evening. Matt flashed and the rest of us were humbled by Squamish once again. Andrea gets the game ball on this one, being only 5ft she was toe hook matching the start hold and launching to the sloping ledge* (not standard beta, this could result in injury)

Jesse on Child Abuse, v4

Posing like a terrorist, I mean tourist.

After these two solid days of bouldering Jesse and I were completely trashed, so we spent today making french toast, hot tubbing at the local ‘leisure center’ and caught the first matinee of Snow White and the Huntsmen. A solid rest day by anyone’s standards, all for now!

2 days, 3 cities

The Chicago city scape from Jeff and Mark’s Lincoln park apartment

These last few days have been a blur as I studied relentlessly for the NCLEX, and successfully took a complete rest week from climbing. Checking in at the facility to take the exam I was met with quizical looks when they failed multiple times to get decent fingerprints from me, this has turned into a common problem secondary to thrashed tips and slow skin regeneration.

After my exam shut off at the minimum of 75 questions I was relieved and excited to hop a flight to Denver, CO where I had my first interview in med-surg at the University of Colorado Hospital in Aurora, one of the leading research hospitals in the states. I was fortunate enough to have my Mom along for this quick trip to Denver and we explored a little section of down town called Lodo, which we both agreed was Denver’s version of Portland’s Pearl District. When we got to UCH for the interview we were totally blown away by the facility, and simply how monstrous the hospital is. I have never in my life seen a hospital this big, it was a city in itself. The interview itself went extremely well and I’ll be getting word on an offer once interviewing ceases next week. STOKED!!

After my flight to Vancouver BC got canceled I decided to hop over to Chicago where I had fun catching up with my friend Jeff and Mark. They were so hospitable and let me crash on their couch, the next morning I was up with the sun and navigated back to O’Hare on the train. My written directions at the transfers were..’blue line, call me!’ and ‘after the transfer, call me!’ I think I did a good job proving I could survive in Chicago, thanks Jeff!

From Chicago I headed to the beautiful and rainy Vancouver, BC where I met up with my friend Jesse whom I had met on a previous boulder trip to Leavenworth, WA. We stopped for some sushi on our way to Squamish, an amazing climbing destination north of Vancouver by an hour. When we arrived we set up camp and tromped around the wet forest below the chief, and as depressing as the sopping wet boulders were I was still excited to explore Canada for the first time in 22 years of being so close to the border. To my amazement the next morning we had blue skies and the roads were actually starting to dry, a key sign that the rocks were drying too.

some of pretty flora near the base of the chief, Squamish, British Columbia

Jesse and I headed up to Paradise Valley that was just north of Squamish to check out if the blue sky would yield dry rock. We found some rocks to dry with a towel and got the trip started on a high note as Jesse flashed the Sub-sub Prime v6 variation, which I worked on a bit and sent in the afternoon. As my first v6 I was super psyched, with a very low percentage move at the start I was getting frustrated and was able to pair try hard and some toe hooking to move through the lower crux.

This move out left kept shutting me down and stealing my skin

my toe hooky beta, opposed to Jesse’s campus beta.

We got a ton of climbing in at Paradise Valley, where I also sent the amazing v5 Crystal Method, a stellar route that I worked with a friendly Frenchman riding a bike with three boulder pads and a dog. It was a sight.

Jullian and Piko ride back to the farm. 

As a side note, it’s official! I got the e-mail yesterday from Oregon State Board of Nursing, I am now Jessi Pinnock, RN, BSN. Celebratory beer(s) were had at dinner (:

That’s all for now, because there are rocks that need to be climbed.

Update: I’m a terrible blogger.

I originally created this blog as a side journal to record the little excitements found in everyday life while finishing nursing school, climbing, and traveling. Well, all of a sudden I have found myself graduated, with no recent adventures abroad, and surprisingly excited about the weekend climbing the great NW has to offer. I am (I’ll admit surprisingly) content with the change of pace. Before I start yamming about all the things I am currently excited about I want to catch up on a few things that have happened since contracting Japanese pneumonia:

After spending the return flight home incredibly febrile and delirious I spent the next few weeks recovering from 10 lost pounds and assimilated back into nursing school by starting my capstone in the PCU and CVICU (Progressive Care Unit and Cardiovascular Intensive Care Unit) at Peace Health Hospital in my home town of Vancouver.  After my capstone my final rotation was in Labor and Delivery and NICU, where I fell completely in love with nursing all over again. The complexity of these little patients and the dynamics of family instilled a passion for NICU nursing that I am so incredibly thrilled about. Here is a quick update of the highlights since January (:

Bishop – Not about to take our last spring break for granted I decided to road trip with two of my best friends down to Bishop, CA where we ran around the Buttermilks playing on the best granite the world has to offer.

Eric on the hike down from the Happies – Photo cred Greg K.

I finally sent my first v5 Flyboy arete after a bit of work with a few members of the awesome Humbolt crew. The proudest send was Rene, a highball v5 that was just at my limit. Greg and I both sent Rene on our last day in the Happies, we were both super psyched. Just as conditions were ripening we ran down to the Gleaner v7 to verbally assault Eric with encouragement on one of his projects he still had standing, needless to say we were all in the bonus round that night. It was a great trip!

A brilliant shot from our campsite in the pit – Photo cred Greg K.

Here is the video Joe Ramos from the Humbolt crew put together, lots of sendage, Flyboy arete is in there too :

Smith – aka my favorite place in the world, has been calling since last season and I was finally able to get down for a weekend in late April to work on my longest standing project, Heinous! With some new beta, courtesy of my friend Matt G. who  has a stored data base of all beta ever used inside a spray bottle he carries to the crag, I managed to start linking Heinous again after forgetting about it since last summer. What is so awesome about getting on an old project is coming back and being able to send well. Being efficient and climbing technically, beautifully. Not every red point feels this way, not lacking effort but lacking the flail and desperation all other attempts had.

a non-current photo with Eric crushing lower Heinous 12a back in the day

Graduation – a total whirlwind of  goodbyes, pubcrawls, and last minute cramming for the last exams in undergraduate. Now with my BSN in hand I’ll be looking for a job as an RN, not sure where just yet! I’ve applied to many different residencies that are conveniently located near areas of obvious climbing interest, and tomorrow I will be taking my boards for licensure in Oregon and hopping on a flight to Denver where I have my first interview on the med/surg unit at University of Colorado Hospital.

These next few weeks I’ll keep the blog updated as I bounce from Denver CO to Vancouver BC to Lander WY as I visit friends and explore these new and beautiful parts of America, that’s all for now!

To the Onsen!

Today we were up before the sun again, this time Mitch, Kyoko, and Yushi spent the night so we were ready to head down to another sea cliff in Jogasaki early in the a.m. Over the past couple days I’ve been getting sick so I took it easy and followed Mitch and Carlos to clean gear. I was really not feeling great while belaying Mitch on his onsite go of a lie back crack and short travers on an undercling with zero feet, needless to say I decided to climb it and was happy to end on such a fun note.

We ended early so Kyoko and Mitch and I decided to visit an Onsen in Yugawara, which is a Japanese hot spring with falling water and smooth rocks lining the bottom of different pools. The entrance fee of 1,350 ¥ included a hand towel (which doesn’t cover much). Men and women enter separate areas so I followed Kyoko around looking like a clueless white girl. Buck naked we went to shower then into the hot spring for a soak. The Onsen is really popular with the Japanese when they are on holiday, they will go to the Onsen early, eat breakfast or lunch, soak again, eat, and soak in the evening. I would say this is must if you want to experience Japanese culture,  and it’s a good way to relax if you like to stay super busy while exploring Japan. One thing though, a majority of the Onsen do not allow people with tattoos, due to affiliations with the Japanese mafia.

I stole this from google, but this is actually the men's side, the women's side overlooks the ocean

 

Kamakura

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GAMBAAAA!!!!!

sunrise over Yugawara

Yesterday we were up for the sunrise over Yugawara for some trad 101 at a busy crag called Olympus. For those of you who do not know what trad climbing is, you must be dumb. Just kidding, it’s a form of old school ethics using your own form of protection to climb a route, so you use these rad looking metal cams instead of bolts in the rock. It’s just a tad sketchy..if you don’t know what you’re doing (in my case)

Carlos y mate, pass it round

Convinced Carlos was trying to kill me I decided to top rope what would be my first trad lead, I was totally ok with letting go of the onsite. After procrastinating the climb I decided I was ready to lead this super easy crack and finally be in trad territory as a climber.

first lead on trad, so terrifying but I was SO excited!!

Today we were up by 4:30 am, Carlos, Yushin, Hori, and myself stopped at a mini mart an hour south of Yugawara to catch breakfast and to use the restroom before we headed through the small town of Futoshima to an isolated ocean crag. I had an awkward moment at the mini mart when the woman behind the counter greeted me in Japanese then scanned my items, “hi hi hi!” Being half awake yet, I replied, “oh, hey!!” with a goofy smile on my face. We all laughed about it later, ‘hi’ translating to ‘ok’ in english.

Sunrise over Futo

The sun was rising when we arrived at 6:00, and I was absolutely amazed by the aesthetics of such a small climbing area in the shape of a horseshoe that looks directly out to the Pacific Ocean.

worth the early wake up

this picture makes it look way warmer than it was

Yushin crushing the warm up

With Carlos’ signature hand warming rock in the chock bag we started by warming up on a few easy trad pitches. I started feeling a little more confident and excited about the line Carlos pointed out early in the morning, a kicked back crack that exposes you to an awesome ocean view at the top. It took me some time to get the courage to finally lead it, and after freaking out 3 moves off the ground I finally pulled it together and sent! Ah, what a fine feeling!! Even though it seemed like I was placing cams every other move it was such an accomplishment to lead trad on both such an excellent and challenging route.

stoked about the onsite!!!!! hugging the tree and thankful to be alive..

Futo

does this jacket make me look...fat?

gamba Yushi!!!!!!!!

Tonight for dinner Carlos, Yudi, Khali, and Khodi took me out to eat at a local sushi restaurant, which was absolutely by far the best sushi I have ever had, ohhh baby it was good. We had some weird combos of tuna, octopus, eel, oyster, and dolphin tongue (kidding about the dolphin tongue, ha). My mouth still tastes like fish and seaweed, mmmm saaww gewd!!  v-_-v  I am so thankful that I have had a welcoming home to stay in while exploring the outskirts of Tokyo, believe me when I say this family is seriously awesome, and their kids are beyond adorable.

bebe Khodi, happy happy camper at Teko

 

Yokohama and beyond

This morning I woke up bright (before the sun) and early on my massive bed of crash pads at  Teko Cave, a bouldering gym on the fourth floor of an office building in Yokohama. My new friends Carlos and Yushin were already up packing their sleeping bags so I followed suit and we were at Yokohama station by 5:40 am to catch the second train to the town outside Takatori Yama. We met Yuichi and Mitch on our way and while hiking up in the dark I got to see the sunrise in Yokohama bay while freezing my fingers on some fun pocketed sandstone.

"danger, no standing at this point"

We mainly top roped and listened to Carlos make fun of us until lunch time, then we headed for a massive feast of Tonkatsu (pork, chicken, and oysters covered in egg and bread crumbs deep fried to perfection) along with miso soup, pickled cucumber, rice, and sea weed from across the street.

Me, Yasu, Mitch, Kyoko, and Kyoko's mom

I learned a few valuable lessons about chopsticks: no touching the ends of someone else’s chopsticks with your own, and no sticking your chopsticks in your rice, which indicates a death of a loved one. And I still  flail like a foreigner when speaking Japanese, but I’ve got the ‘domo arijato’ down, or ‘thanks very much’ (:

Across the way we visited a temple on the ocean front with a view of Mt. Fuji in the distance, it was absolutely beautiful while we sipped on yerba mate and explored a small section of rocky beach.

Fuji is on the far left and you cannot see it. ha oops